The August family moved to the Southern California coastline from Arizona during the early part of the 20th Century. The youngest of two sons, Orall W. August was a CIF swimming champion at Long Beach High School. Since his school’s athletic facilities included an Olympic style pool, super-star Olympian, Duke Kahanamoku, (the Michael Phelps of that era,) would train there for the upcoming Games. The Duke befriended young O. W. (later to be known as ‘Blackie’) and introduced him to the sport of surfing, bestowing upon him a liberal dose of the Aloha Spirit in the process.
Orall August had to drop out of high school to help his family through the tough economic circumstances of the times. By now an experienced waterman, he would camp out at Palos Verde Cove for days on end, fishing and diving … Read More »
This last summer I finally persuaded TC to go South with Jalian and I to ride some fun right handers along with his son, Frank. Days before departure, Tyler Warren wanted to jump in and join in on the adventure. And of course, I couldn’t refuse. We ended up scoring some good waves, with good conditions and all had a great time. Plenty of variety of boards were ridden from old school 70′s to the most modern latest and greatest from Tomo. This here is just a rough glimps of what was.
Enjoy – Buggs
During my visit to Jeffrey’s Bay this last summer, I was fortunate to exchange speed runs at Super Tubes and talk story on Surfboards in between set waves with Derek Hynd. DH extended the invite up to the compound on the point to further talk story on surfboards of the past and what is in store for the future. He was intrigued with the Buggs Deep Collection and the provenance it holds and preserves for generations to come. So he decided to pull out something special out of the back and walla appeared the Sonis French Connection. A contemporary surfboard transformed to the finless world of DH. Tune in on the video for the full story and enjoy. A true classic and addition to the Buggs Collection. – B
It has taken me years and many fakes to finally acquire the REAL DEAL!. Someones loss was Buggs gain.
Collecting surfboards for me started as way for me to preserve boards that were dear to me and my youth. When I realized how many I had been collecting at the time, honestly, they were about to be thrown out. I decided to save the best of them and since then collecting boards has turned into an obsession.
My inspiration comes from not just collecting the work of innovative shapers from years past, but also boards that reflect the art and craftsmanship of the different eras. Everything from pigments, airsprays, pin lines, logos and of course the shapes. How could you look at the cut of a 70′s stinger shape and not be interested in its history of design and inspiration! One of the greatest pleasures for me is seeing others get stoked on … Read More »
The name itself fits the man’s personality Rick “Rockin” Fig Fignetti and he is synonymous with Huntington Beach. A ten-time West Coast Surfing Champion, and member of the first NSSA National Team in 1978, ³Rockin Fig² has been and still is the voice of surf announcing for local and legendary surf events including the US Pro Tour, OP Pro, the US Open of Surfing for 16 years and the NSSA Nationals for the past 20 years receiving a lifetime NSSA membership award for his contribution.
Fig has been the KROQ FM ³Surfologist² for the last 26 years doing morning surf reports and for 20 years owned a surf shop on Main Street in HB, a local institution called Rockin’ Fig Surf and in the ³Old School² tradition there are lot’s of surfboards on the floor which he’ll talk to you about … Read More »
If one were asked to explain Jamie O’Brien in a word, they might choose “explosive.” Whether being spit out of a seething Pipeline barrel, launching an air reverse six feet above the lip, or blowing up in front of a camera, Jamie’s surfing is a full frontal assault on the senses. There is a saying that “the person having the most fun in the water is the best surfer on any given day.”
O’Brien was born on June 9, 1983 in Hawaii and currently lives in Haleiwa. He has said that he was fortunate as a child to grow up near the Banzai Pipeline. He is one of the youngest surfers ever to win a Pipe Masters challenge.
Jamie’s father was a life guard and Jamie has said that one of the things that … Read More »
Known by many as the “Father of the Modern Longboard,” Steve Walden shaped his first surfboard in 1961, at age 13, and never looked back.
Eight years later, the native Southern Californian opened his first board factory and store in Huntington Beach, then moved to the North Shore of Oahu in 1972, where he made a name for himself as a prolific longboard shaper. While the rest of the surfing world was fixated on short single-fins, Walden continued to faithfully hone his longboard designs. Over the years he shaped for prestigious labels like Lightning Bolt, Local Motion, HIC, and Channel Islands, but it was always his own boards that set him apart. By the early 80s, Walden returned to California where he unveiled his wildly successful Magic Model with its radical rocker, down-turned rails, and super-fast Turbo … Read More »
Pick a surfing stereotype from smuggler to savior and you’ll find a piece of Dick Catri. Widely considered “the godfather of East Coast surfing,” this Floridian has influenced the sport for more than 40 years. Competing, coaching, repping, retailing, shaping — some would even say, shystering — Catri never missed an opportunity to promote the surfing lifestyle at home and abroad, crossing paths with renowned watermen from the venerable Duke Kahanamoku to modern wonder Kelly Slater.
Born in New Jersey, Catri [pronounced CAH-tri] moved to Miami as a boy. Upon graduating from high school in 1957, he began working as a beach attendant where he met a stunt diver named Jack “Murph the Surf” Murphy, who later achieved infamy for stealing the Star of India, the world’s largest sapphire. The California native introduced Catri to surfing … Read More »
Thomas Victor “Tom” Carroll (born 26 November 1961 in Newport, New South Wales) is a former professional surfer from Sydney, Australia. He won the Australian Junior Title in 1978, the Pro Juniors in 1977 and 1980, the 1983 and 1984 ASP World Tour, and the 1987 Pipe Masters. He became the first surfing millionaire after signing a contract with Quiksilver in 1989.
Carroll made the finals of the 1979 Pipe Masters as a world tour rookie, finishing 24th in the world that same year. He continued to ascend from 17th to 10th to 3rd before taking the world title in 1983 (winning 6 of 13 events) and distinguishing himself as the first goofy foot world champion.
The following year he … Read More »